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| | 谁把外地人带进了中国县城的小店？ | | | 中国新闻周刊 ｜ 2026-09-10 | | | |
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scroll 0 1 凌晨三四点，沧州岳记羊肠馆的后厨已经忙了起来。头天晚上煮好的羊肠下进锅里，锅里的清汤已提前熬到火候。天亮之后，十多张桌子开始轮转，食客陆续推门进来，熟稔地和老板打招呼，老板岳天亮也早已记住他们各自的喜好，一碗羊肠汤，配上烧饼、大饼或窝头，十几分钟吃完离开。
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这样的早晨，岳家已经重复了近40年。不同的是，煤炉、大锅和三角架案板从马路边搬进了店里；相同的是，一碗羊肠汤仍由家里人守着做。店从爷爷那辈传到岳天亮手里，做了三代。不少老客也跟着吃了三代，如今又带着孩子来，算起来已是第四代。
今年40多岁的岳天亮几乎没出过沧州，但最近，他发现店里来了越来越多的外地食客。
熟人圈里的好生意对一个数十年如一日经营的老馆子来说，许多顾客都叫得上名字。陌生面孔一出现，店主很快就能认出来。
长期以来，在沧州这样的中小城市以及县域乡镇，本地小店做的多是熟人生意。店主认识熟客，熟客知道店里用什么料、掌勺的人是什么脾气……信任就在一顿顿饭里慢慢积攒下来。
就像费孝通在《乡土中国》中所提出的，“中国传统社会是熟人社会，有一张很复杂庞大的关系网，人熟是一宝。”
四川眉山板凳面的李大姐做了16年面，每天早上4点起床，5点前开门，一直忙到晚上7点半。最让食客放心的是，李大姐在开面馆前做的是猪肉生意，“转行”之后，她的食材供应商仍然是之前的合作伙伴。她选用本地黑猪肉和切成大片的牛肉，“每一片肉，我一看就知道是哪个部位的，骗不了我。”曾有送肉的主动上门推销冻肉，她当场拒收：“颜色不对，我不要。”
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