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scroll 0 1 今年六月陪同两位国际友人琳和麦克前往安徽歙县参观徽州古城。原打算去黄山爬山，可是麦克刚做过膝盖手术，只好临时修改计划。我选中了徽州古城，一来距离合适，而且我们不需要重新购买高铁车票。二来徽州古城是中国历史文化名城，有着深厚的历史底蕴。琳和麦克对于中国的古民居建筑也很感兴趣，是一个不错的选择。对于我来说还有一个好处，不用爬山了。大热天的，黄山虽然风景优美，爬上爬下的，也是一件苦差事。
徽州古城坐落在歙县中心，是国内保存最完好的四大古城之一。其历史源远流长，可追溯到秦朝，公元前221年秦始皇统一中国，首设歙县。至唐代以来，歙县一直是徽郡、州府治所在地。明朝中叶徽商崛起，此后雄踞中国商界二、三百年。商贾们在赚取财富后，大量资本回流故里，用于修建豪宅、宗祠、园林和牌坊。形成了极具特色的徽派建筑。如今的徽州古城仍保留完整，一条条小巷纵横交错，粉墙黛瓦鳞次栉比、高高的马头墙错落有致，古老的牌坊藏着令人心酸的故事。古城虽小，但一步一个故事，也可转个大半天，走在这样的古城里，仿佛回到了遥远的古代。
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这里不仅历史底蕴深厚，还有不俗的风景。歙县四面环山，黄山雄踞西北，清凉峰屹立东北，新安江蜿蜒翠峰黛嶺之间，山水交融、峰岭逶迤、溪流纵横，是山清水秀的好地方。徽州古城更是山环水绕、五峰拱秀、六水回澜。然而古城的风景绝非单一的自然风光，而是一幅由山、水、城、人共同勾勒出的流动江南水墨画。既有宏大的地理山水格局，也有深藏在白墙黛瓦间的市井烟火，更有千年徽州的文化底蕴。为了深入了解古城，我的安排是，先看自然风光，再品徽派文化。第一天坐游船，游览欣赏新安江山水画廊风景区。第二天漫步古城，行走在静谧幽深的小巷，参观高大庄严的徽州府衙，体会隐藏在白墙黛瓦间的市井烟火气。
新安江发源于安徽和江西交界处的怀玉山脉主峰，流经安徽和浙江两省，全长373公里，每一段都有不同的名称。安徽上游称为新安江，流经浙江富阳后叫富春江，再到杭州便叫做钱塘江。其中安徽歙县区域的百里，风景如画，是其精华，被称为新安江百里画廊。乘坐新安江游船是深度体验古徽州山水格局的最佳方式。新安江是徽文化的摇篮，是徽商走出大山、远赴苏杭的黄金水路通道。徽州地区山多地少，田瘠产薄，当地人为了生计只能走出大山。新安江提供了天然水道，徽州人可顺流而下开展贸易，将家乡的的竹木、茶叶、漆器、文房四宝等向外输出，实现最初的资本积累。顺着新安江转入钱塘江，徽商可直达杭州，并辐射整个江南。最终在明清时期崛起，成为中国古代十大商帮之首。
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